As someone who writes so much about food, and who worked as an advertising/regulatory lawyer for one of the world’s largest food conglomerates, I didn’t think there was a lot that could surprise me about the processed food industry. Then I picked up Melanie Warner’s new book, Pandora’s Lunchbox, and was agog.
Did you know that the Vitamin D in your milk — even your organic milk — likely comes from Australian sheep wool that’s been heavily processed in China? Or that, of the five thousand additives in our food supply today, and of the additional 3,750 “food contact substances” that might also migrate into our food during processing, only half have been subject to any kind of published toxicology studies? Or that an early crusader for food safety, Harvey Wiley, had a cadre of volunteers called the “Poison Squad” who would ingest questionable ingredients like borax and sulfuric acid to determine their potential for harm?
Melanie Warner is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in numerous publications, including Fortune, CBSnews.com and the New York Times. I used to follow her CBS blog regularly and have long admired her incisive coverage of the food industry. Melanie was kind enough to let me interview her about Pandora’s Lunchbox and, given TLT’s focus on kids and food, I was particularly interested in how her findings have affected her as a parent of two boys.
At the end of our interview, I’ll tell you how to enter for a chance to win your own free copy of Pandora’s Lunchbox.
TLT: You obviously were well informed about the processed food industry before researching Pandora’s Lunchbox, so I’m wondering: was there anything you learned about food processing or additives that still totally shocked you?
MW: I was surprised to encounter so many people within the industry who don’t eat the products they help produce. They are cooking much of their own food – many of them say they love to cook – and shopping at farmer’s markets and Whole Foods. They don’t buy soda or Gatorade for their kids, and they eat fast food only when they have to, such as when traveling. One food scientist excitedly told me about the huge garden she plants every year; another explained that he makes his own yogurt. It’s a strange dichotomy and many of these industry veterans acknowledge the existence of two food systems operating in America – one where educated people in the upper incomes eat wholesome, fresh food and the where everyone else consumes a steady stream of unhealthy, highly processed fare. The problem is that, on a collective level, all of these food scientists and company executives are helping to perpetuate this inequality, instead of working to expand access to fresh, real food.
Another surprising finding was just how porous our system of food additive regulation is. It’s amazing to realize that, for most new food ingredients, there are no actual FDA requirements for safety testing. And what’s worse, there are an estimated 1,000 additives the agency doesn’t even know about – substances that ingredient companies have just started selling. This lack of oversight also leads to a situation where you have a substance like BHA, which is a probable carcinogen according to the Health and Human Services Department, being added to commonly-consumed products like Tang, McDonald’s sausages and breakfast steak sandwiches and DiGiorno pepperoni pizza.
TLT: You write about your philosophy with respect to processed foods and your own children, concluding that “I’d rather not take the chance – especially when there are so many alternatives. I’d rather feed them processed foods without chemical preservatives and ingredients that leave tongues Smurf-blue. . . .” I think most readers of The Lunch Tray feel the same way, but a lot of us are challenged by the many opportunities in our kids’ day to eat chemical-filled junk food outside our homes, like the bright blue sports drink and processed chips handed out at the soccer game, or highly processed, artificially colored supermarket cupcakes passed out in class for someone’s birthday. How do you handle these instances with your own kids? Do you urge them not to partake? Or do you just roll with it, on the theory that their overall diet is not highly processed?
MW: I am fortunate to live in the abnormally healthy enclave of Boulder, Colorado, where blue drinks and cupcakes with industrial chemicals are not the norm. When my kids do encounter Flamin’ Hot Doritos, soda, fast food and candy, I often just roll with it and let them have fun. But if junk food were to be the norm, greeting us at every soccer game and social occasion as I know is the case for so many parents, I would be figuring out ways to make sure our kids don’t overconsume it, teaching them that it’s an occasional indulgence, not a normal, acceptable way of eating.
TLT: I don’t know how old your sons are, but are you planning to talk (or have you talked) to them about some of your findings in the book? What’s the message do you want to impart to your kids about processed food and food additives?
Our sons are 6 and 4 and so to them mommy’s new book is very boring. It’s just a dense jumble of words, no fun pictures. When I speak to them generally about food, I try to point out foods that are healthy and have some fun with asking them questions about where food comes from and how it’s grown. On occasions when they ask why they can’t have Cheetos, Froot Loops or yogurt in a tube I tell them it’s because these things aren’t real food. They taste good, but they don’t help their bodies grow strong or give them big muscles (that seems to work with little boys). I suspect at some point down the road I’ll get a lot more pushback on this and more questions. Maybe then I’ll give them the gory details about how some of their favorite processed foods are made and what all the various ingredients are, and then see if they still have an appetite for them.
TLT: As you probably know, two food bloggers are asking Kraft to drop two petroleum-based yellow food dyes from its mac-n-cheese product and they’ve garnered 280K petition signatures in support of their effort. So far, however, Kraft seems to be holding firm. So what do you think about this episode? Given the lax oversight at FDA with respect to food additives, what’s the best way to bring about change? If this petition effort ultimately fails, do you think there’s anything an individual can do besides just choosing natural products?
MW: I think this is a mistake on Kraft’s part. The company is probably digging in its heels due to some combination of a cost concerns and a fear that they will lose customers were the signature bright orange appearance of their mac & cheese to change even a little. I think Kraft is missing an opportunity to stand out from the crowd and respond to what is clearly a shifting tide in consumer sentiment. These types of concerns are not going away. So far, the company has responded to the petition by saying that they already offer mac & cheese varieties without artificial food colorings. But the other day when I went to my local King Soopers (owned by the Kroger chain), six of eight Kraft varieties contained food dyes – and this in Boulder where you might think people would appreciate the more natural offerings. Also, the prefabbed mac & cheese so many restaurants serve (Applebee’s, IHOP, Bob Evans, etc.) happens to be the original Kraft variety with food dyes.
As for ways to bring about change, we shouldn’t underestimate the power we have as customers to force the food companies, and indeed our entire food system, to change through what we choose to buy. Kids should be another big area of focus. Getting elementary and middle school aged kids to understand the concept of healthy food represents one of our best chances for changing our toxic food environment. Kids are naturally curious about nearly everything and food is no exception. Encourage schools to plant a garden so that kids learn all foods originate in the soil, not the shelves at the supermarket. We also need to find ways to teach kids basic cooking skills since many of them are not learning this at home. There quite a lot of tools out there for education, such as these extremely watchable videos encouraging kids to “un-junk” themselves.
TLT: One thing about your book that struck me (and with which I wholeheartedly agree) is that you don’t expect profit-driven food giants like PepsiCo, Kraft and ConAgra to change their ways. You recognize that they’re for-profit companies and are unlikely to be the agents of change some food reformers hope them to be. That said, do you support any kind of legislative curbs on their activities? For example, do you think they should be barred from directly advertising unhealthy foods to children?
MW: I do. This would offer a tremendous leg up for parents, many of whom really can’t get through the supermarket or drive by McDonald’s without their kids nagging at them. I’ve seen my kids gravitate toward a bag or box with Sponge Bob or a colorful animal on it, even though they have no idea what’s even in it. They don’t care; they just want it. There was an amazing document written in 2010 by a joint committee of officials and scientists from the FTC, FDA, USDA and CDC. It set strict nutrition guidelines for what could be marketed to kids. The rules were so well written that they would have eliminated most of what’s geared towards kids today, which is, by and large, sugary, nutritionally devoid junk. Naturally, the food industry howled in protest and the guidelines, which were voluntary by the way, quietly disappeared.
TLT: Your book ends on a hopeful note, advocating a return to simple home cooking, but you also recognize that many Americans lack even basic cooking skills. It seems unlikely that our cash-strapped, standardized-testing-focused public schools can assume this role, and there aren’t nearly enough non-profits like Cooking Matters to reach the people who need them. So how do we bring Americans back into the kitchen?
MW: We need to start thinking about how to allocate resources to the important job of changing the way America eats, especially our kids. Perhaps food and cooking education are something a soda tax could fund, much in the way tobacco taxes have financed effective anti-smoking ad campaigns. Soda taxes are inevitable; it’s just a question of when. They make sense because they would discourage consumption of what is arguably the worst item in our diets, something linked to obesity and diabetes. Moreover, they send a cultural message about things that should be consumed carefully.
I’m not a gourmet cook, nor am I even a foodie. But I find the act of preparing my own food – even if it’s just simple meals like a grilled chicken salad or spaghetti and meatballs – to be enormously rewarding, both in terms of our family’s physical and emotional well-being. So many subtle yet deep family bonds are forged around the dinner table.
TLT: Is there anything else you’d like to share with Lunch Tray readers?
MW: It’s important not to get too strident about all this. Processed food can have its role in our lives and there’s nothing wrong with some junk food indulgences. Food is meant to be enjoyed. My hope is that we move toward a place where more and more Americans start to grasp the profound pleasures of eating fresh, healthy food.
* * *
Many thanks to Melanie Warner for allowing me to interview her on The Lunch Tray today!
For a chance to win your own free copy of Pandora’s Lunchbox, just leave a comment below by Sunday, April 14th at 6pm CST. You can tell everyone why you’d like to win the book, your concerns about food additives, or you can just say hi. To double your chances of winning, you can “like” The Lunch Tray’s Facebook page (if you haven’t done so already) or tweet about this giveaway on Twitter and then leave a second comment telling me you did so. I’ll use a random number generator after the comment period closes to select one lucky winner. I’ll email you directly if you win and announce the winner on TLT’s Facebook page, too. This offer is open to U.S. residents only.
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Nina says
Great interview. Maybe we should all move to Boulder.
Melanie Warner says
Yes, come! there’s room.
Anna says
I would love a copy of this book–my local library does not have it and it is too new to be sourced from other areas!
Shannon says
This interview ends on such an uplifting tone:
“Food is meant to be enjoyed. My hope is that we move toward a place where more and more Americans start to grasp the profound pleasures of eating fresh, healthy food.”
Amen, sister! The book sounds fantastic!
Donna says
I’m actually a little scared to read this book!
Melanie Warner says
It’s not too scary, I promise!
Casey says
Looking forward to reading the book and spending more time in Colorado next year!
Anahita G says
Thanks for a great interview. Looking forward to future works of Ms. Warner.
Steve says
I would encourage anybody who wants their children to learn about gardening or cooking their own food, to become involved in 4-H. I know this tends to be more of a rural or small town organization, but there are 4-H clubs in some metropolitan areas. And if they don’t have one in your area, be a leader and start one. 4-H prints leader guides to help you with teaching if that is something you need to get started. This is a volunteer organization that has been around for over a century and is not just for showing your prize steer or pig. Going to a county fair is a great way to find out where your food comes from.
Vivi says
I look forward to read “Pandora’s Lunchbox”!
Mom in NJ says
Maybe knowing what’s in our “food” will help convince my kids to forgo those options.
Kathi says
I love the name Pandora’s Lunchbox and I would love a copy of this book!!
Candice says
I am looking forward to reading this book! I live in an affluent area where we vote down providing school breakfast each year yet we can’t get momentum to upgrade our kids’ school lunches. There are lots of parents making good food choices for _their_ kids but abdicating their social responsibility to the kids that are getting free or reduced lunches by refusing to make waves about better school food.
Laura says
I would love a copy of this book, sounds like a great and interesting book!
Caty Kehs says
HI
Would love to share this with my kiddo’s public school fellow parents. We are trying to organize a “Food Revolution Day” event on May 17 to raise awareness about food and cooking and I am thinking this is the perfect book to promote. Did you see Mark Bittman’s “Lost in the Supermarket” piece about this same book on 4/9 in the NYTimes?
You did a great interview and I like the note she ends on–try not to get too strident!! I find it’s another area for the Mommy Wars to get rekindled when I delve into this issue at school. Many just don’t realize how bad processed food has gotten–to the point that I can’t agree with everything in moderation is ok. But while traveling on vacation, I had to relax and let go a little so that I didn’t drive myself and my family crazy.
Ellen Bouillon says
Interesting interview. Can’t wait to read the book.
Joanna says
Knowledge is power! So excited to read this book.
Joanna says
Shared it on Twitter (nextgenhouse). Thanks for the opportunity!
Hilary says
I want to hear more about what’s in our food from someone who knows! Love your blog–keep it up! 🙂
Hilary says
Also I liked your page on facebook
Jennifer says
I can’t wait to read this book! Thanks so much!!
Martha says
It’s amazing what is hidden in foods and how deeply you often have to search to get real answers.
eila says
I cannot wait to read “Pandora’s Lunchbox”. As a former assistant brand manager at a major food company I know what parents are up against. It’s depressing…. but if we all commit to exposing our children to real food, and educating them about making healthy choices, there is hope… Thank you for the fabulous interview!!!
Rachel says
Whoa. This book goes on top of the pile of must-reads. The more I learn, the less I trust anything to eat. 🙁
Amber d says
Very interesting interview. Large corporations should listen to consumers who want healthier, less processed options.
Amber d says
Shared on Twitter! 🙂
LindaSue says
Wow. So many things to think about. I would love to have this book. And I wish our area was as health minded as Boulder. It starts with a seed though, and maybe one day it can be. Thank you.
Korey says
I placed a hold on this book at my local library, but there are 87 people ahead of me! Not sure I can wait that long…
Lee says
This book sounds amazing! I was just reading today in the WSJ that companies are trying to reproduce the flavors of fermented food (think: Sriracha-flavored Lays), which is so completely not the point of eating healthy fermented foods like kimchi or kefir that, well, I don’t even know where to start. I hope Ms. Warner’s book will help me with that *g*.
Heather says
Wow! Very interesting. Looking forward to reading!
Belinda says
Really enjoy reading this articles. My sons are grown now but I am learning a lot for myself and my grandchildren. Thanks!
Annabel says
What an interesting interview! My favorite part was Melanie’s mention of the class divide; i.e. those who market & devise the food don’t eat it, but feel it’s good enough for the majority of our impoverished, food-insecure citizens. Such a food justice issue. The one thing I disagree with her on is whether we should head toward soda taxes. I feel this would further exacerbate a class divide and I’d favor, instead, either getting rid of our subsidies on commodity crops or subsidizing our fruits & vegetables. I can’t wait to read this book! I’ve Tweeted about the give-away and already liked TLT on Facebook 🙂
Steph says
I would love to read this book & share it with my friends & family who are unaware of these issues.
Megan P. says
I have this book on reserve at my library right now and I’m still waiting for my turn. I’d love to have my own copy!
Alissa says
I can’t wait to read this book and would love to win a copy! I’m always looking for more info to share with my community about making good food choices.
Maggie says
I cant wait to read this book. I’ve just started on my health food journey and will be buying this book if I dont win it.
Maggie says
Liked The Lunch Tray on facebook!
Anna Stepka says
I would love a copy of this book. Its on hold at the library, getting my owm copy would be even better though.
Kelsey D. says
I am new to eating/living natural and have become so discouraged by what our country has allowed in our food/body products and so much more! I want to do something but I’m at a loss as to how to educate people. I’m becoming slightly depressed that more people don’t care about what they eat! Anyway, I’d love to win this and learn more about healthy living!
Kelsey D. says
Liked your facebook page too!
Courtney says
I would love to read this book and learn more!
Belinda says
I would love to win this book. I have been trying to eliminate processed foods from my family’s diet for a few years now.
Maggie says
It’s good to raise awareness & knowledge, this sounds like an excellent book.
To comment on a couple of things –
I’m not sure I can agree that regulation/taxes are a way to go (referring to soda tax that is mentioned).
My thought is that many people are going to need to want to make the change and be willing to put the effort into the changes to make this a cultural shift. I also think the effort, time & attitude changes needed to do this are often underestimated.
Bettina Elias Siegel says
The entry period for this drawing is now closed. Thanks to all for participating!
Lee says
I’m the lucky winner (thank you again) and just got the book today. I’ve already read about half of it. It goes wonderfully with Michael Moss’s _Sugar Salt Fat_; each book offers something different about the processed food industry. While Moss looks at the marketing of processed foods, Warner really gets into the uses of food additives and their effects on our health.
The chapter at the end about home cooking made me think, too, of Kathleen Flinn’s _Kitchen Counter Cooking School_, which is ostensibly about how she taught nine novice cooks (all volunteers, wide range of ages and socioeconomic status) some basic skills and kitchen know-how. But, of course, it ends up being about so much more than that.
Anyway, short version is: Melanie Warner’s expose of food additives is great! Now if we could just get the people who really need to read it, to read it …
Bettina Elias Siegel says
So glad you like the book! 🙂
Sharon Badian says
Great interview! I have the book but haven’t gotten to reading it yet. I can’t wait do devour 🙂 it.
Like Melanie, I’m lucky enough to live in Boulder, CO, which many call 5 square miles surrounded by reality. It’s so true that we live in a bubble. We have Chef Ann Cooper, the Lunch Lady, running our school food system. We have fantastic local farmers and a rich food scene. But, just as Melanie found at King Soopers with the Kraft mac&cheese, you don’t need to go far to find the processed food. Just today I was shocked by all the extra “stuff” in plain old cottage cheese in 5 out of 6 brands sold at Soopers. It’s rather daunting sometimes and I’m good at reading labels.
I love Melanie’s philosophy on processed food. I’m a cooking educator – I teach adults basic cooking skills so they can feed themselves, their friends, and their families better and at a reasonable cost. Her definition of processed has become my working definition and I tell everyone I can about it. Wrote a blog piece about it. She’s a big inspiration for me!
Bettina Elias Siegel says
You’re very lucky to live in a health-conscious city, and I’ll go check out your blog now. And I think you’ll really enjoy Pandora’s Lunchbox – she’s a great writer and what could be dry in someone else’s hands reads like a page-turner. (Or maybe just for food nerds like us! 🙂 )
Georgianna says
Such a great attitude! Thank you for sharing this!!